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The Good Scents Company started in 1980 as a fragrance concern located in the basement of my home. It quickly became clear that digging through file cabinets of paperwork and boxes of index cards was a barrier to acting on creative inspiration. I needed an system for rapid retrieval of information.

Unfortunately there were no electronic databases or filing systems available for a creative perfumer. Not deterred I taught myself the dBase programming language and designed a database. I entered all the paperwork and index cards and quickly found that this database was very helpful in retaining my creative inspiration while finding the information required.

This site is no longer relevant .

50 Years of Perfumery & Flavoring Materials

Allured Publishing Corp. Phone : 630/653-2155 Fax :630/653-2192

email: books@allured.com

This book is a combination of the 50 annual review articales written by Dr. Bedoukian from 1945 to 1994. The author outlines developments in this industry over the last 50 years.

A Great Source of Books on the Subject of Perfumery, Essential Oils and Flavors

Allured Publishing Corp. Phone : 630/653-2155 Fax :630/653-2192

email: books@allured.com

Many of the Perfumery and Flavor books are available form this source.

A Psychology of Food: More Than a Matter of Taste

B. Lyman, Van Nostrand Reinhold, New York, NY, 1989, 189pp.

Examines how food preferences develop and how they change, based on principles of human psychology. Softbound.

Aroma Biotechnology

Allured Publishing Corp. Phone : 630/653-2155 Fax :630/653-2192

email: books@allured.com

Describes reactions leading to aroma and flavor compounds, and depicts in detail their utilization in industrial scale processes.

Asymmetric Synthesis of Natural Products

A.M.P. Koskinen, John Wiley & Sons, New York, NY, 1993, 234pp.

Covers both the fundamentals and the latest developments in asymmetric synthesis as applied to natural products.

Atlas of Odor Character Profiles

A. Dravnieks, Ed., ASTM Data Series DS 61, Philidelphia, PA, 1985, 354pp.

Evaluates the sensory properties of 160 chemicals by rating the applicabilty of 146 odor descriptors. Spiral-bound.

Bioformation of Flavors

R.L.S Patterson, B.V. Charlwood, G. Maclead, A.A. Williams, Eds., Royal Society of Chemist

Examines general reatures of flavor production by plants, fungi, yeast, and bacteria and covers specific aspects of flavors and improvement using modern in vitro and in vivo techniques. Includes analysis methods of bioflavors as well as as industrial applications.

Bioprocess Production of Flavor, Fragrance and Color Ingrediants

A. Gableman, Ed., John Wiley & Sons, New York, NY, 1994, 361pp.

This book addresses a wide range of topics including process production, genetic engineering and tissue culture-with specific examples taken from flavors and fragrances, regulation of biotechnology products in foods, and consumer perception information.

Chemical Hazards of the Work Place

3rd ed., G. Hathaway, N.H. Proctor, J.P. Hughes, and M.L. Fischman, Van Nostand Reinhold,

Discusses the toxicology of approximately 525 chemicals most likely to be encountered in the workplace, with monographs including chemical formula, CAS number, Threshold Limit Value (TLV), physical properties, uses, route of exposure and toxicalogical details.

Chemistry and Technology of the Cosmetics and Toiletries Industry

D.F. Williams and W.M. Schmidt, Blackie/Chapman and Hall, New York, NY, 1992, 320pp

Organized by product catagory, this volume provides up-to-date review of the industry in a readable form. Covers raw material selection, formulation and developement of products for the international marketplace, product performances, safety/quality aspects, and regulatory issues for both the US and Europe.

Chemistry of Novel Foods

Allured Publishing Corp. Phone : 630/653-2155 Fax :630/653-2192

email: books@allured.com

The papers in this book are from a seminar of the Division of Agricultural & Food Chemistry, American Chemical Society, 1995 International Chemical Congress of Pacific Basin Societies, Honolulu, December, 1995.

Common Fragrance and Flavor Materials

Allured Publishing Corp. Phone : 630/653-2155 Fax :630/653-2192

email: books@allured.com

Describes the properties, applications, and manufacture of natural and artificial flavor and fragrance materials.

Compendium of Olfactory Research

To order this book, please call (800) 228-0810, Kendall/Hunt Publishing Company

This hardcover book includes fully detailed and comprehensive analysis and review of research studies supported by the Olfactory Research Fund. Topical sections include: Fundamentals of Odor Perception, Fragrance and Psychophysiology, Olfactory Conditioning, Scent and Social Behavior, Mood, Cultural and Historical Perspectives and Applications.

Dictonary of Toxicology

E. Hodgson, R.B. Mailman and J.F. Chambers, Eds., Van Nostrand Reinhold, New York, NY, 198

Provides information about toxicity measurements, substance side effects, diagnosis and treatment for exposure.

Enantioselective Synthesis: Natural Products from Chiral Terpenes

Tse-Lok Ho, Ed., John Wiley & Sons, New York, NY, 1992, 324pp.

Comprehensive discussion of the use of chiral terpenes to synthesize various types of naturally occuring compounds. Organization is based on terpenes and the necessary strucural modifications.

Encyclopedia of Common Natural Ingrediants Used in Food, Drugs, and Cosmetics

2nd ed., A.Y. Leung, John Wiley & Sons, New York, NY, 1995, 896pp.

Practical, up-to-date reference containing over 300 common natural ingrediants used commercially.

Fenaroli's Handbook of Flavor Ingredients: Volumes I and II

3rd ed., G.A. Burdock, CRC Press, Boca Raton, FL, 1994, 1,376pp.

This new reference set brings together regulatory citations, FEMA numbers, names and common synonyms, specifications, natural sources, and permitted use levels in food.

Flavor Chemistry and Technology

H.B. Heath and G. Reineccius, AVI Publishing, Westport, CT, 1986, 442pp.

Surveys the chemistry, creation, legislation, and quality control of natural and synthetic flavoring materials.

Flavor Chemistry: Trends and Developments

R. Teranishi, R. G. Buttery, and F. Shahidi, Eds., ACS Symposium Series No. 388, American

Eighteen chapters devoted to the latest theories about the formation of flavor compounds and flavor perception; and recent investigations of specific f1avors (including herbs, spices, cooked meats, tomato and pineapple volatiles).

Flavor Encapsulation

S.J. Risch and G.A. Reineccius, Eds., ACS Symposium Series 370, American Chemical Society,

Includes an overview and 17 papers describing original research in the field of flavor encapsulation.

Flower Oils and Floral Compounds in Perfumer

Allured Publishing Corp. Phone : 630/653-2155 Fax :630/653-2192

email: books@allured.com

More than 100 years of published information on the formulation of floral compounds and perfumes are reviewed. The book includes comments and observations on modern variations using new materials that have been replaced, or are alternatives to, older formulas, Chapter topics include black current, carnation, honeysuckle, jasmin, lilac, rose and violet. Anonis is a senior perfumer/chemist with many years of experience in creative perfumery, as well as detailed knowledge of the natural flower materials used in perfumery. Many of the book's chapters first appeared as articales in Perfumer & Flavorist magazine and other publications. Several chapters previously have not been published. The book is useful to both the experienced perfumer and those just beginning in the field.

Food Additive User's Handbook

J. Smith, Van Nostrand Reinhold/Blackie, New York, NY, 1991, 286pp.

Essential information that food technologists require for developing new products. Food additives are grouped into chapters (according to antioxidant, flavor, color, etc.) for easy identification and selection.

Food Additives Handbook

R.J. Lewis, Sr., Van Nostrand Reinhold, New York, NY, 1989, 592pp.

Provides properties, toxicology, regulations, and other important information for more than 1350 food additives including "unintentional" additives (e.g., pesticides and heavy metals).

Food Chemicals Codex

3rd ed., Food and Nutrition Board, National Research Council, National Academy Press, Wash

Defines FCC specifications and the analytical tests required to meet them for almost 800 food chemicals. Includes supplements to the Third Edition.

Food Flavourings

2nd ed., P.R. Ashurst, Ed., Routledge Chapman and Hall, New York, NY, 1994, 332pp.

A practical companion for all scientists and technologists in the flavor and food industries. Offer's a comprehensive review of the natural sources of flavor ingredients and the formulation, manufacture, and application of food flavorings.

Food: The Chemistry of its Components

2nd ed., T.P. Coultate, Royal Society of Chemistry, Cambridge, UK, 1989, 325pp.

Provides a detailed account of the chemistry of the principal components of food. Softbound.

Fragrance: The Story of Perfume From Cleopatra to Chanel

E.T. Morris, Charles Scribner's Sons, New York, NY,1990, 304pp.

This popular text offers interesting historical background and technical information useful to fragrance manufacturers. Softbound.

Get in Touch with Your Sense of Smell

Olfactory Research Fund, 145 E. 32nd St., New York, NY 10016 (212) 725-2755

This series of informative pamphlets includes: Aroma-Chology How We Smell The History and Anthropoly of Smell The Secrets of Scent Flavor: From the Nose to the Table The Loss of the Sense of Smell

Glassblowing: An Introduction to Artistic and Scientific Flameworking

2nd ed., E. Carberry, MGLS, Marshall, MN, 1989, 230pp.

Provides information about the material, equipment, processes and techniques essential for glassblowing.

Handbook of Food Additives: An International Guide to More Than 7500 Products

M. Ashand I. Ash, Gower, Brookfield, VT, 1995, 1,025pp.

Describes 5000 trade names and 2,500 chemicals that function as food additives. Contains world-wide regulatory information, toxicology, applications, and general properties. Each listing also includes the manufactures, chemical compostition, and CAS abd EINECS numbers.

Handbook of U.S. Colorants for Foods, Drugs, and Cosmetics

3rd ed., D.M. Marmion, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., New York, NY, 1991, 466pp.

Updated edition describes the manufacture, analysis, properties, and uses of color additives.

Living Well with Your Sense of Smell

Olfactory Research Fund, 145 E. 32nd St., New York, NY 10016 (212) 725-2755

This report, written in lay language, includes: a fascinating overview of the anatomy and physiology of smell, the multi-faceted roles of fragrance in providing a sense of well-being in many aspects of daily life, a historical and anthropological overview and glossary.

Natural Products: Their Chemistry and Biological Significance

J. Mann, R.S. Davidson, J.B. Hobbs, D.V. Banthorpe and J.B. Harborne, Longman Scientific &

Provides an account of the structure, chemistry, biosynthesis and biological activity of most types of natural organic compounds. Each chapter is devoted to a particular class of compounds.

Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Aroma Chemicals)

Allured Publishing Corp. Phone : 630/653-2155 Fax :630/653-2192

email: books@allured.com

Two-volume collection of 3,102 monographs,organized alphabetically by chemical name, containing comprehensive yet brief information about perfume and flavor chemicals.

Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin

Allured Publishing Corp. Phone : 630/653-2155 Fax :630/653-2192

email: books@allured.com

A one-volume book, in dictionary format, containing extensive monographs on all known natural essential oils, extracts, oleoresins and other materials of natural origin for flavors and fragrances. The book also includes botanical information, detailed odor and flavor descriptions, and practical suggestions on applications in flavors and fragrances. Although published in 1960, very little new material has been introduced into commerce since.

Perfume Legends: French Feminine Fragrances

Allured Publishing Corp. Phone : 630/653-2155 Fax :630/653-2192

email: books@allured.com

Tells the success stories of 45 famous fragrances through the words of their creatore. The legends are presented chronologically, by chapter. The creation of the perfume is analyzed in detail, with photographs. The book reveals the inspiration behind many of the most famous bottles, and details information about their design. It also covers the perfumers, bottle designers and couturiers who played a role in perfume history.

Perfumer & Flavorist

Allured Publishing Corp. Phone : 630/653-2155 Fax :630/653-2192

email: books@allured.com

Perfumer & Flavorist is the foremost international magazine covering research and development in the flavor and fragrance industry. Each bi-monthly issue contains a wide variety of articles relating to subjects of importance to the flavor and fragrance compounder. Subscriptions: USA and Canada $125.00 one year; all other countries US$165.00 one year shipped by air.

Perfumery and Flavoring Synthetics

3rd ed., P.Z. Bedoukian, Allured Publishing, Wheaton, IL, 1986, 467pp.

email: books@allured.com

Gives the history, chemistry, applications, properties, and manufacture of a wide range of synthetic flavor and fragrance materials.

Perfumery The Psychology and Biology of Fragrance

S. Van Toiler and G.H. Dodd, Eds., Chapman and Hall, London, UK, 1988, 268pp.

Covers perfumery from the evolution of the sense of smell to the therapeutic uses of fragrance and the marketing of fine fragrances.

Perfumery: Practice and Principles

R.R. Calkin and.J.S. Jellinek, John Wiley & Sons, New York, NY, 1994, 287pp.

This book presents the physical, chemical, and psychophysical aspects of perfume development and an in-depth analysis of the structure of some of the world's great perfumes.

Perfumes: Art, Science and Technology

P.M. Muller and D. Lamparsky, Eds., Elsevier Applied Science, New York, NY, 1991, 666pp.

This modern, scientific sourcebook covers the world of perfumery, from art and creativity to production and research. Leading specialists in each field contribute industry background information as well as selected details (with hundreds of literature references). An excellent resource for perfumers, fragrance chemists, researchers in related fields, and those involved in the marketing, development and distribution of consumer products.

Poucher's Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps, Vol. 1: The Raw Materials of Perfumery

9th ed., A.J. Jouhar, Ed., Chapman and Hall, New York, NY, 1991, 349pp.

A guide to the constitution and manufacture of perfumes, cosmetics, and soaps. Data are presented in a structured format and, where appropriate, each compound is listed under its common name and several alternatives (CTFA name, CAS registry number, and European ECOIN number).

Qualitative Analysis of Flavor and Fragrance Volatiles by Glass Capillary

W. Jennings and T. Shibamoto, Academic Press, New York, 1980, 472pp.

Describes a range of practical ancillary techniques that are useful adjuncts to capillary gas chromatography. Includes precision retention indices for more than 1200 compounds.

Savory Flavors

Allured Publishing Corp. Phone : 630/653-2155 Fax :630/653-2192

email: books@allured.com

Chapters cover the advances of flavor preception, an overview of Maillard and related flavor producing reactions, reaction flavor technology, formation of IQ(Imidazo quinoline) compounds, protein hydrolysates, savory spices, flavor enhancers, cheese, regulatory and safety issues.

Scent and Fragrances: The fascination of Odors and Their Chemical Perspective

Allured Publishing Corp. Phone : 630/653-2155 Fax :630/653-2192

email: books@allured.com

Inroduction to the world of fragrance, scent, and perfumes. Presents a survey of the molecular basis of odor and scents and of the specific structure-activity relationships between fragrances and their receptors.

Science of Olfaction

M.J. Serby and K.L. Chobar, Eds, Springer-Verlag, New York, NY, 1992, 590pp.

Comprehensive interdisciplinary reference that bridges the gap between recent basic science and clinical work in the field. Material ranges form the molecular architecture of olfaction to its cognitive-sensory links, and dissolution in disease.

Sensory Evaluation of Food: Theory and Practice

G. Jellinek, VCH Publishers, Deerfield Beach, FL, 1985, 429pp.

Fifteen chapters aimed at training flavor panelists to make objective, reproducible sensory analyses.

Spices, Condiments, and Seasonings

2nd ed., K. T. Farrell, Van Nostrand Reinhold, New York, NY, 1990, 414pp.

Provides a detailed account of current seasoning technology and methods by which spices are utilized in the formulation of spice blends, condiments, and sauces.

Standardized Human Olfactory Thresholds

M. Devos et al., Eds. Oxford University Press, New York, NY, 1990, 165pp.

Provides the first homogeneous inventory of weighted and averaged human olfactory thresholds for more than 500 chemicals including literature references and mathematical methods used.

Sweeteners: Discovery, Molecular Design, and Chemoreception

D.E. Walters, F. T. Orthoeter, and G.E. DuBois, Eds., ACS Symposium Series 450, Washington

Contains 24 papers, ranging from sweetener discovery and structure-taste studies to mechanisms of sweet taste perception.

The Aroma-Chology Review

Olfactory Research Fund, 145 E. 32nd St., New York, NY 10016 (212) 725-2755

The Review is a bi-annual publication which tracks down international sources of information that provide current news in the medical, physical and social sciences which may be applied to the study of the sense of smell and the psychological benefits of fragrance.

The Chemisrty of Heterocyclic Flavoring and Aroma Compounds

G. Vernin, Ed., Prentice Hall, Englewood, NJ, 1982, 375pp.

Covers the occurrence, properties, synthesis, analysis, and legislation of heterocyclic flavor compounds.

The Contribution of Low- and Non-volatile Materials to the Flavor of Foods

Allured Publishing Corp. Phone : 630/653-2155 Fax :630/653-2192

email: books@allured.com

The papers published in this book are from a seminar conducted by the Division of Agricultural & Food Chemistry, American Chemical Society, National Meeting - Chicago, Illinois, August 20 - 24, 1995.

The Development and Application of Natural and Artificial Flavor Systems

E.J. Merwin, Ed., Allured Publishing, Wheaton, IL, 1984, 114pp.

A collection of papers covering such topics as flavor development and manufacture, training flavorists, analytical and legal aspects, encapsulation and extrusion.

The Journal of Essential Oil Research

Allured Publishing Corp. Phone : 630/653-2155 Fax :630/653-2192

email: books@allured.com

The Journal of Essential Oil Research, published bi-monthly, is the major forum for the publication of essential oil research and analysis. Each issue publishes studies preformed on the chemical composition of some of the 20,000 aromatic plants known in the plant kingdom. Original research papers on all aspects of production, proccessing and analyisis of essential oils and related natural products relative to their use in flavors and fragrances are published.

The Perfume Handbook

N. Groom, Chapman and Hall, New York, NY, 1992, 323pp

A comprehensive, encyclopedic reference covering all aspects of perfumery, including historical information. Detailed descriptions for more than 200 of the top fragrances, including their main ingredients, are presented with a special appendix containing ancient and modern perfume recipes and formulas.

Video: Aroma-Chology: The Impact of Science on the Future of Fragrance

Olfactory Research Fund, 145 E. 32nd St., New York, NY 10016 (212) 725-2755

Highlights from presentations made at this 1991 symposium include two panels of guest speakers composed of marketers, scientists and futurists who present a broad exchange of information on the impact of science on the future of fragrance. This set, consisting of two (2) VHS videotapes is available.

The amount of Fragrance needed is governed by one's allowable cost, the nature of the Fragrance itself and the effect desired in the finished product. The following schedule has been compiled to serve as a general guide.

Perfume .................... 283 to 907 grams per 4.5 kilograms

Cologne .................... 113 to 227 grams per 4.5 kilograms

Aerosol Mist ............... 5% to 15% of the basic formula

Bath Oil ................... 113 to 454 grams per 4.5 kilograms

Bath Salts ................. 227 to 454 grams per 45 kilograms

Brilliantine ............... 7 grams per 4.5 kilograms of oil

Bubble Bath ................ 227 to 454 grams per 45 kilograms

Bubble Bath Liquid ......... 14 to 28 grams per 45 kilogram

Candles .................... 1% to 6% in paraffin

Creams ..................... 113 to 227 grams per 45 kilograms

Deodorant .................. 85 to 113 grams per 45 kilograms

Deodorant Liquid ........... 3.5 to 7 grams per 45 kilogram

Dusting Powder ............. 113 to 170 grams per 45 kilogram

Face Powder ................ 227 to 454 grams per 45 kilograms

Hair Preparations .......... 7 to 14 grams per 45 kilogram

Hair Lacquer ............... 0.025% in PVP base spray.. 0.05% if in shellac base

Hand Lotion ................ 7 to 14 grams per 45 kilogram

Pomade ..................... 113 to 227 grams per 45 kilograms

Sachet ..................... 1360 to 2268 grams per 45 kilograms

Shampoo .................... 7 to 14 grams per 45 kilogram

Shave Lotion ............... 7 to 14 grams per 45 kilogram

Soap ....................... 113 to 454 grams per 45 kilograms

Soap Liquid ................ 7 to 28 grams per 45 kilogram

Stick Cologne .............. 907 to 1814 grams per 45 kilograms

Sun Screens ................ 3.5 to 28 grams per 45 kilogram

Talc ....................... 113 to 170 grams per 45 kilograms

In practice, colognes usually require not over 5% unless a deluxe product is being made. Perfume generally takes about 560 grams per 45 kilogram of alcohol. Cosmetic creams and lotions are better underperfumed, for they generally are left on the skin for prolonged periods of time. From 0.02 to 0.25% often gives a softer and more pleasant note than a higher concentration.

Conversion Table.

Also See Metric-conversions.org

1 Ounce = 28.35 Grams

25 Grams = 0.88 Ounce

4 Ounces = 113.4 Grams

100 Grams = 3.52 Ounces

100 Grams = 0.10 Kilograms

8 Ounces = 226.8 Grams

200 Grams = 7.05 Ounces

200 Grams = 0.20 Kilograms

1 Pound = 453.59 Grams

400 Grams = 0.88 Pound

400 Grams = 0.40 Kilograms

400 Grams = 14.1 Ounces

7 Pounds = 3175.13 Grams

3 Kilograms = 6.61 Pounds

3 Kilograms = 105.82 Ounces

25 Pounds = 11339.75 Grams

11 Kilograms = 24.25 Pounds

11 Kilograms = 388.00 Ounces

Cubic Centimeters = minims X 16.231

Cubic Centimeters = fluid ounces X 0.0338

Cubic Centimeters = fluid drams X 0.2705

Drams (avdp) = grains X 27.3437

Drams (avdp) = grams X 1.7718

Drams (avdp) = ounces X 0.0625

Fluid Drams = millileters X 3.6967

Fluid Drams = minims X 60.0

Fluid Drams = fluid ounces X 0.125

Fluid Ounces = fluid drams X 8.0

Fluid Ounces = liters X 0.02957

Fluid Ounces = millileters X 29.5735

Fluid Ounces = minims X 480.0

Gallons (US) = millileters X 3785.0

Gallons (US) = minims X 61440.0

Gallons (US) = fluid ounces X 128.0

Grains = drams (avdp) X 0.03657143

Grains = grams X 0.0648

Grams = drams (avdp) X 0.5644

Grams = grains X 15.43

Grams = ounces (avdp) X 0.03527

Kilograms = drams (avdp) X 564.38

Kilograms = grains X 15432.36

Kilograms = grams X 1000.0

Kilograms = ounces (avdp) X 35.274

Kilograms = pounds (avdp) X 2.205

Liters = fluid drams X 270.512

Liters = gallons (US) X 0.2642

Liters = minims X 16230.73

Liters = fluid ounces X 33.814

Milliliters = fluid drams X 0.2705

Milliliters = liters X 0.001

Milliliters = minims X 16.231

Milliliters = fluid ounces X 0.0338

Minims = fluid drams X 0.0167

Minims = millileters X 0.061612

Pounds (avdp) = drams (avdp) X 256.0

Pounds (avdp) = grains X 7000.0

Pounds (avdp) = grams X 453.5924

Pounds (avdp) = kilograms X 0.4536

Pounds (avdp) = ounces (avdp) X 16.0

Specific Gravity = Pounds per gallon (US) / 8.34

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Cosmetic Functions Listing

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Cosmetic Functions Listing

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